Behind The Scenes: 10 Reasons Why You Should Choose ShinyandSpotless For Carpet Cleaning and Upholstery Cleaning Services in Orlando and Sanford

We at ShinyandSpotless are a new cleaning company in Central Florida, serving Orlando, Sanford, and neighboring areas. We offer our clients European high-standard cleaning services including upholstery cleaning, carpet cleaning, mattress cleaning, and more! Our team is trained according to European standards, and we want to share our expertise with you so you can feel confident that ShinyandSpotless is the right choice for you. Enjoy reading!

  • We understand fibers: Whether your sofa is made of expensive, natural fibers or synthetic ones, we’ll help you clean it.
  • We can identify materials: Have a rug but don’t know what it’s made of? We’re happy to solve that mystery!
  • We are professionals: We have a European approach to cleanliness and use our 9-step cleaning process, so you know you’ve chosen the right cleaning company.
  • Cleaning is chemistry, and we’re good at it: Acids and alkalines are part of our everyday work.
  • We can adapt to your requirements: “This needs to dry quickly!” – no problem! We know low-moisture cleaning methods.
  • We’re not afraid of difficult jobs: ShinyandSpotless helps customers with cleaning urine, vomit, …and other unpleasant situations.
  • We serve Seminole County, FL residents: Come and check out our services in: Altamonte Springs, Casselberry, Oviedo, Sanford, and Winter Springs!
  • We provide services in Orange County, FL: Check out our cleaning services in: Alafaya, Apopka, Orlando, and Winter Park.
  • We also clean in Volusia County, FL: We invite residents to contact us: DeBary, DeLand, Deltona, and Orange City.

How a carpet performs in the home depends on many things: carpet construction, yarn construction, type of installation, quality and frequency of maintenance, type of padding used and the type of fiber used. Each fiber has different characteristics that do not change with changing carpet styles. How fiber repels or attracts different soils and stains affects cleaning results.

How durable the fabric is also relates to construction and how it is used. Material differs from carpet in thickness, type of backing and durability.

Natural and synthetic fibers differ in their ability to absorb moisture. Natural fibers have a high absorbency rate, while synthetic materials have a low absorbency rate. This affects how fibers are dyed and their susceptibility to staining. An additional problem is drying time.

Wool is obtained from sheep’s wool.

We have a comprehensive chapter on fibers that are a raw material for the production of fabrics and carpets. We have discussed the division and properties of fibers of each type. In this chapter, you will learn how our cleaners transform theoretical knowledge about fibers into practical knowledge. We often get questions that can be summarized as follows – What material is this and which chemicals can I use? This is understandable, because there are a huge number of different types of materials on the market.

First, we will look for a label containing information about the material composition. In the case of carpets, it is simple – the label is located on the back of the carpet. But we will not always find it there, sometimes it will be there and sometimes it will not. In the case of furniture upholstery, labels are much less common. Sometimes it is a sticker from the bottom of the sofa or chair. Sometimes the label is located in the cushion from the sofa set (if the cushion has a zipper). In a situation where we were unable to find the label, we ask the customer whether they have an invoice for the purchase of the sofa or anything else that will need washing. If we see that the furniture is quite new, it is very likely that the customer will still have such a document. Then it is a great convenience for our specialists. Based on the invoice, we find out the commercial name of the material and from which store the item was purchased. Then we can find the material on the store’s website and we have in black and white what fibers it is made of. But what if we do not have either the label or the invoice? – we can do a burning(combustion) test or a color migration(bleeding) test

The combustion test is also known as the fire test, lighter test or burning test. This is the simplest and fastest method of identifying fibers. Thanks to this test, we learn what specific fibers we are dealing with and thus select the appropriate cleaning agents and method. To perform the burning test, we only need three things. Small scissors, tweezers and a lighter. Using scissors, we cut out a single fiber in the least visible place. Just as in the case of carpets, this is usually not a problem, so with furniture upholstery, sometimes we have to search a bit to find a protruding hair from the material. Then, what we need to do is grab the obtained fiber with tweezers and light it with a lighter. During burning, carefully observe the smell, the effect of burning and what will be left after burning. Below is a table with burning parameters.

As you can see, the combustion test allows you to identify each type of fiber very precisely. However, in practice it is not always that simple, sometimes the combustion results can be interpreted differently. Fortunately, it is very easy to distinguish natural fiber from artificial fiber, and this is already valuable information for us. Natural fibers burn to create a mass, from which ash is created when crushed. Artificial fibers melt, most often giving off a smell similar to burning plastic, and after burning they form a mass.

The color migration test consists of placing a cleaning agent (in an inconspicuous place) on the surface of the carpet or furniture. After some time, we apply a clean, white microfiber towel to this place and check whether the color from the item we want to clean has migrated to the towel. If there is no color migration, it is very likely that the item can be cleaned with this cleaning agent.

Extraction is a method of deep cleaning using a carpet extractor. This method involves simultaneously spraying the working solution and sucking it out together with the dirt. Extraction is used for the vast majority of orders. Although extraction washing is automatically associated with a carpet extractor, it is a multi-stage process. Let us now discuss the individual stages, starting from the very entry into the order.

The first thing our specialists do when they arrive at the client’s place is to change their shoes to clean ones or put on shoe covers. Then we have to prepare our workspace. Let’s assume that we have a couch to wash. Most often, such a couch or corner sofa is pushed up against the wall and it has to be pulled out more to the center to have access from the back of the couch. We do this so that, firstly, we don’t want to splash the wall and secondly, we always clean the back of the couch as well. If the couch or corner sofa is modular, it should be disconnected. The only exception is when the room is so small that it is simply not possible. When moving the couch, we take care not to scratch the floor. Special pads are useful for this purpose, which are placed under the legs and then the furniture can be safely moved. The same applies to any other item that we will wash, we have to organize free access around it as much as possible. We put on disposable gloves and remember to properly protect the floor from splashing. This careful preparation is especially important in the beautiful homes we service throughout Deltona.

We look at the upholstered furniture from every side, paying special attention to the so-called existing damage. Existing damage is not dirt but local damage to the material. This may be, for example, abrasion, tearing, iron burns, faded color, permanent discoloration of the material. These are things that will not magically disappear during washing and to avoid any possible misunderstandings, it is worth informing the customer about this in advance. This is also the right moment when we try to recognize the fabric on the upholstery. Our experience serving clients in DeBary has taught us to pay particular attention to sun damage that can occur near large windows.

Dry vacuuming is intended to collect dirt that is not soluble in water, such as sand, hair or animal fur. A carpet extractor should not be used for dry vacuuming. A carpet extractor does not have adequate filtration. The dust, dirt and mites that are sucked in “fly” through the vacuum cleaner and get into the air.

Stain removal is the local removal of stains using the right technique and stain removers. Many experts have doubts whether to remove stains at the beginning or at the end? Theoretically, stains should be removed at the beginning, before applying the pre-spray. The point is that the pre-spray can set the stain and it will be more difficult to remove later. From practical experience, we can say that the vast majority of stains come off from the pre-spray itself, so there is no point in removing everything at the beginning, of course it depends on what stains we are dealing with.

Prespray is a means for initial dissolving of dirt. We choose a prespray that is safe for a given material and also in terms of dirt. We mix the prespray with water in a sprayer according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and apply it evenly to the entire cleaned upholstery. In the dirtiest places, we apply this agent abundantly, and in less dirty places, a delicate mist is enough. We work calmly, rushing is not recommended here, but at the same time we do not allow the prespray to dry on the furniture.

The purpose of scrubbing is to tear/loosen dirt from the fibers and evenly distribute the prespray. Remember to wait a few minutes before scrubbing, so that the prespray has time to work. It is not enough to gently brush, we have to put in a lot of work there. We scrub until we see all the dirt dissolving. We do not scrub on dry material, there must be a slight slip. The right brush is also important, it cannot be too hard, because it will drag and pill the material.

Extraction rinsing is intended to flush out previously dissolved dirt. To this end, we will make a rinsing agent (so-called rinse) according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. The rinse is best mixed with water in a bucket and then poured into the clean water tank of the carpet extractor. The water should be as warm as possible. This guarantees obtaining the fastest and best effects. We also choose the rinse for material and dirt. Pour some anti-foaming agent into the dirty water tank. We work while making extraction passes with the wand, and the suction should be adjacent to the material. We rinse in a given place until we see that the extractor draws only clean water. Then, without spraying, we extract the maximum amount of water from the material and continue in place next to it. So first we make extraction passes with spray until we pull out all the dirt and then extract the water without spray. It is good to make extraction passes in one direction and then perpendicular to that. Thanks to this, we can be sure that we have not missed any fragment on the washed surface. Irregular areas, i.e. all roundings or other fancy shapes can be a bit problematic. The wand is not effective on such material and it is hard to extract dirt. In such a situation, we spray the place with a rinse, remove the wand and extract the dirt with the very end of the hose.

Brushing upholstery is the culmination of our work. Why are we doing this? The fabric after washing often looks ugly. We can see “the tracks” of the extraction wand. On one fabric it will be more visible on another less. And after drying it will not be better. Therefore, a dry, clean brush should be carefully used to brush the material in the right direction.

The upholstery after extraction washing is moist and will need time to dry. Exactly how much it is difficult to determine. Drying time depends on many factors. The type of material, the initial degree of dirt, the equipment used, the temperature and the degree of humidity in the room are important here. One material will dry quickly, while another will need much more time. We estimate the upholstery drying time after an extraction washing from a few to several hours. To accelerate the drying time, you can use air movers. Finally, we inform the customer that it is worth turning on the air conditioning or opening the window during the drying time. In the Florida climate that we experience in DeLand and surrounding areas, proper ventilation is particularly important for optimal drying results.

Fabric is a textile product that consists of two thread systems: warp and weft. These threads are intertwined according to a specific order, creating a weave pattern. In this chapter we will deal with fabrics that occur on the upholstery of our customers’ furniture. We will discuss both popular materials that occur in virtually every home and very rare ones, but we are also prepared for such. There are also fabrics that should be treated very individually. There are thousands of commercial names of fabrics in circulation and it is impossible to know them all by heart. Knowledge of the commercial name is most useful, but in practice it often remains unknown.

Synthetics is a group of upholstery fabrics with which we usually deal with. The composition of fibers is usually polyester, polyamide, polypropylene or mixtures of various synthetic fibers. How to recognize a synthetic? This is the most ordinary, nothing special material that is a lot around. Often in shades of gray and slightly rough to the touch. This type of fabric is resistant to high pH. We choose the means for dirt. For example, enzymatic prespray will perfectly dissolve the dirt of protein origin and the acidic rinse will allow them to be rinsed by neutralizing the high pH after prespray. In the case of significant dirt, prespray can be strengthened by adding a booster and you can use an alkaline rinse for rinsing. The alkaline rinse has greater cleaning properties, so rinsing the dirt will be even faster and easier.

Synthetic fabrics with a hydrophobic or impregnated coating are also a popular group of upholstery fabrics. At the production stage or after, various types of protective coatings are used. Depending on the coating and technology used, such materials are called stain-resistant, hydrophobic, Aqua Clean, Water Repellent or those covered with Teflon. It may also be that the material has not been factory impregnated, but someone in our industry did. These are not synonyms. Each of the coatings is slightly different, different technology, less or more effectiveness. However, for everyone the target is the same, protecting the material against stains. At the beginning it actually works, but regardless of whether the material is impregnated or hydrophobic, with time its coating wears off and begins to absorb dirt like any other. Examples of such fabrics are e.g. Carabu, Penta, Mystic, Porto, Focus. In addition, any material can be impregnated.

To recognize the material with a hydrophobic coating, simply pour a little plain water on it. If the water stays on the surface for a long moment, it means that the material has such a coating. However, if the water immediately begins to soak into the material, then either the impregnate was there, but a long time ago and it was worn off or it never was there. If in the conducted test it turns out that the material is impregnated, we use delicate chemistry with low pH for cleaning it, and for rinsing any acid rinse. Thanks to this, the material has the chance to maintain hydrophobic properties depending on the type of impregnation used. Strongly alkaline agents can cause weakening or completely removing the impregnation. In a situation where the dirt is significant and more delicate, chemistry does not quite cope with them, you can use products with a higher pH. Since the material has absorbed such significant dirt, it clearly no longer has any hydrophobic coating. After the service, we can propose to the client applying our own hydrophobic coating.

Plush is a group of fabrics characterized by unique touch values and depth of colors. They are made from linen, cotton, wool, silk, artificial silk, synthetic fiber yarn and their mixtures. Here, everything can be in the composition. The older the piece of furniture, the greater the likelihood that we will find fibers of natural origin. Plush is a fairly wide concept. This group is distinguished by special varieties, i.e. velvet, corduroy, moquette, Velour. These fabrics are similar, but it is a mistake to use these names as synonyms. The similarity results from the use of a pile surface, but they are completely different fabrics. The differences between these fabrics result primarily from the method of weaving, fabric thickness, type and length of fibers.

These types of fabrics have a common feature – they are extremely soft to the touch (hand test) and usually have intense and vibrant colors. When we use alkaline cleaning agents to clean such materials, after drying they will be rough to the touch. If the colors are vibrant, intense, too strong cleaning agents can cause the migration of these colors. These types of fabrics should be treated similarly to those of natural origin. If it is necessary to use stain removers, we remember to previously do a color stability test in a hardly visible place (such materials are particularly susceptible to discoloration). Finally, we carefully brush the material with a dry, clean, soft brush in the right direction.

The most popular artificial fiber of natural polymers is viscose (Rayon). Also called artificial silk and art silk. The viscose fibers are very weak, it can be said that it is basically paper. Cleaning viscose is a challenge and most companies do not undertake this task. Reason? The viscose is easy to destroy with an inappropriate approach.

Viscose should not be cleaned wet or using mechanical equipment. Only manual cleaning is recommended here. Gently vacuum the sofa dry best with the help of a brush attachment with a soft tip (with bristles at the end). We work all the time according to the direction of pile arrangement, we do not make movements against the pile. Dry cleaning or low humidity methods are recommended for cleaning viscose. To clean the viscose, we can use an agent based on an organic-mineral solvent.

The second method of cleaning viscose is bonnet cleaning. There are many different agents on the market, but in this case we should use mild pH. We make prespray with water in a closed container, minimum dosage as the manufacturer recommends. We shake the container to obtain the foam. We apply the foam on the fabric with a soft brush and gently spread through the material (the material should be evenly moist). Then soak the white microfiber in the acidic rinse, squeezing/wringing the cloth, removing excess water (the microfiber cloth should be slightly moist, but water cannot flow from it). Wipe the material with circular movements. At this stage, there will be a transfer of dirt to the microfiber and the acid reaction will stop the action of the previously applied agent, which will prevent cellulose browning. For this purpose, use waffle-weave microfibers. Gently brush the material and leave to dry completely.

A group of fabrics containing fibers of natural plant origin. Linen and cotton are the most common. Inadequate agents and excess water or detergent used for cleaning can cause irreversible consequences on this type of fabric. All fibers of plant origin contain cellulose. Cellulose and excessive amount of water during cleaning and too long drying time = cellulose browning.

The use of low pH and warm water is crucial here. As far as possible, we use drying with air movers. With natural fibers of plant origin, in the event of staining, there is often permanent, irreversible discoloration. If we decide to use any stain remover, we first do a color migration test in the least visible place.

Fabrics of natural origin from animals are wool (sheep, cashmere, angora, mohair, merino). Wool is used primarily for the production of carpets, but we have many times cleaned the furniture upholstery from this material. How to recognize? Tag, invoice from the client, combustion test. Wool fibers during the combustion test produce the smell of burned hair, feathers or horn. Wool burns slowly to form a fragile, black ash. Soft material to the touch, fibrous. Wet wool smells in a characteristic way. Perhaps you know the specific smell of a dog returning straight from the rain to the apartment? Well, wet wool smells very similar.

Only chemistry safe for this type of fiber should be used to clean wool. The best will be the “Wool Safe Approved” certificate. The same applies to stain removers, we must be sure that a given stain remover is safe for wool. Too high pH can cause permanent destruction of the fibers, discoloration, and color migration. Wool fibers are very hygroscopic, which means that they have the ability to absorb and retain a significant amount of moisture. Therefore, when washing the wool upholstery or carpet, we try not to oversaturate the cleaned surface, because there may be a problem with drying later. Natural fibers dry longer than synthetic. We only use as much water as necessary. We extract the water completely by making dry extraction passes, thanks to which we shorten the drying time of the carpet. Water temperature above 158 °F may damage the fibers. We use a soft brush, wool does not like too much friction. Finally, we comb the fibers in the right direction.

Furniture is very rarely upholstered with natural silk, but sometimes it can be found. How to recognize silk fabrics? Silk fabrics are very thin and delicate. Silk is always cool, just stroke such material with your hand to find out, we can rub in the same place for a long time and it will still be cool. Silk fabrics have a fantastic luster, satin, golden, incomparable. The result of the combustion test should be a very clear smell of burned hair, the burned fragment should be completely crumbled in the fingers, creating a dark ash. Silk fabrics can be mistaken for fabrics made of mercerized cotton and viscose.

For cleaning silk, we need to approach with the greatest care. Silk fabrics are very expensive and an improper approach can destroy them in a few minutes. Just like in the case of silk carpets, set aside the carpet extractor. Only manual cleaning is recommended here. We vacuum the item dry best with the help of a brush with soft bristles. We work all the time according to the direction of pile arrangement, we do not make movements against the pile. Dry cleaning is recommended for cleaning silk. We can use an organic and mineral solvent for cleaning delicate fabrics that are sensitive to water. The agent is applied as a mist to the material being cleaned with a sprayer. The sprayer should be resistant to solvents. Then rub the applied agent gently with the help of a soft brush (according to the direction of the pile). We wait about 5 minutes and then wipe the material with dry, white microfiber.

In the previous subchapters, we made a detailed division of fibers and distinguished seven groups of fabrics to which almost every possible material can be assigned. In this chapter, I have prepared information for you on washing several popular materials that are not easy to clean. With these examples, you will also see how to clean in practice.

A fairly common material, one of the most difficult to wash. Microsuede is a material described by manufacturers and sellers as super easy to clean. On the first page we read “(…) to remove a stain from a piece of furniture upholstered in microsuede fabric, all you need is a paper towel, a sponge and plain water”. There is not much truth in this and unaware customers tempted by “stain resistance” even pay extra for this fabric. Microsuede is manufactured by weaving ultra-fine polyester fibers into a tight twill construction, then brushing one surface to create a nap that mimics natural suede, often with protective coatings like AquaClean technology applied. The fabric demonstrates exceptional durability with abrasion resistance up to 250,000 Martindale cycles, maintaining its appearance and structural integrity under intensive use. Its dense, three-dimensional structure features tightly woven synthetic fibers that prevent shedding while providing a uniform, soft texture. Aqua Clean, on the other hand, is a fabric finishing technology consisting of covering individual fibers with an invisible molecular layer. The use of Aqua Clean technology is intended to protect the fabric from dirt and stains. And this is partly true. Fabrics with an Aqua Clean coating are easy to regularly maintain and remove fresh stains. If something spills, it is often enough to wipe it with a slightly damp cloth. But the material, like any other, collects so-called everyday dirt and after a while, the light cream upholstery turns dark gray.

How to recognize Carabu? As already mentioned, Carabu is an embossed microsuede material, which is responsible for the pattern visible on the surface of the material. This structure resembles the texture found in natural leather. This pattern is the easiest way to recognize Carabu. In addition, this material is thick, durable, but at the same time quite pleasant to the touch. You can feel such fibers under your fingers. You can also do a water test, pour a little on the material. If the water actually runs down the material, it will undoubtedly be Carabu. Carabu is one of the least pleasant materials to wash. I think anyone who has ever had the opportunity to clean this material will confirm this. The reason why it is difficult to clean this material lies in its structure, and precisely in the embossing and the Aqua Clean coating. If the furniture is neglected and has not been cleaned for years, the dirt has penetrated into the texture, making it more difficult to rinse out. In turn, the Aqua Clean coating will cause the water to run down the material instead of soaking in during cleaning.

The whole secret of cleaning Carabu is not chemistry but equipment. That is, the right chemistry is essential, but in this case, professional equipment is of particular importance. Using the most appropriate and best quality chemistry, but in combination with a cheap carpet extractor, it will be difficult to achieve a very good effect on this material. We are not saying that it is impossible, but it will certainly not be easy. On the other hand, using premium equipment, we can use only water for rinsing and the effect will be sensational. These are just examples to illustrate the gap between machines and their impact. Generally, in this case, apart from the power of the pump and turbine, the temperature of the rinsing solution (extractor with heater) and the wand with internal spray are of particular importance. Carabu is a synthetic material, where the most common composition is Polyester (50%), Polyamide (15%) and Acrylic (35%). Before starting to clean Carabu, you need to take care of properly securing the floor with towels – water runs off this material like off a duck’s back. Additionally, the cleaner must try to dissolve the dirt as best as possible at the stage of rubbing in the prespray. In turn, at the rinsing stage, you cannot rush and must thoroughly rinse the dirt. In some places, it may be necessary to repeat the procedure. If the extraction rinsing was not carried out properly, stains and watermarks may appear during drying. To prevent this, at the very end, we gently spray the material with anti-browning solution, brush the furniture and leave it to dry.

Flock is also a flocked material that visually resembles Carabu. Fortunately, it is quite easy to distinguish between these two materials. Carabu and Flock differ visually in the texture – that is, the surface pattern. Flock fabric is produced through an electrostatic process where short synthetic fibers are chemically treated for conductivity, then charged and vertically aligned onto an adhesive-coated base substrate using high-voltage fields. The material offers good durability with up to 230,000 Martindale cycles, though some fiber shedding may occur since fibers are adhered rather than woven into the structure. The fabric consists of vertically oriented short fibers (0.5-5mm) embedded in adhesive, creating a velvet-like texture where fiber density and length determine the final surface feel. Cleaning Flock always involves the risk of damaging the fabric. This material can pill, come apart or crumble during washing. As if that were not enough, it is difficult to remove stains. We undertake cleaning only at the customer’s risk. We make the customer aware and explain the risks associated with cleaning this material. It is most reasonable to take care of some “documentation” just in case. We mean written correspondence with the customer or asking them to sign an appropriate document in which they clearly order cleaning of the furniture, are aware of the risk associated with it and take responsibility in the event of damage.

When washing Flock, care should be taken at every stage of cleaning. First, wash only one piece of furniture from start to finish, then we can see how the material behaves and whether it makes sense to continue. Use a regular, soft brush to rub in the prespray. Rub the prespray gently and sensitively. For extraction rinsing, it is best to use a wand with an internal spray and the option of reducing the suction pressure. For rinsing, use water at a maximum temperature of 104°F.

True Italian Alcantara has a certificate of origin, it is an expensive material used primarily in the interior finishing of vehicles and yachts. However, what is usually on customers’ furniture is Altara – a cheaper substitute for Alcantara. Altara, also called artificial suede, is a smooth material with fibers that can be felt under the fingertips. Altara on furniture upholstery is most often cream or beige in color, but this is not always the case, it is just an observation. This material gets dirty in a very characteristic way. When the material is neglected, a shiny, black layer of dirt forms in heavily used areas. After getting wet, it quickly darkens. Altara is a material made of synthetic fibers, most often 100% PS (polyester). When it comes to applying prespray, there are no limitations here, this material will endure everything, but you need to match the strength to the degree of dirt. For rinsing, use an acidic or alkaline rinse, also depending on the degree of dirt. Altara is a material that easily absorbs water, we must ensure the appropriate number of dry extraction passes with the cleaning wand to extract the maximum amount of moisture. Finally, we carefully groom the material with a dry, clean, soft brush in the appropriate direction.

Velour fabrics are special types of plush, elegant and technologically advanced upholstery fabrics. Although they seem delicate, velour fabrics are characterized by high durability (significantly greater compared to materials with a traditional weave). They are also characterized by pleasant softness to the touch and beautiful depth of color. The velour pile catches light beautifully. We use gentle cleaning agents to clean velour. In a situation where the dirt is significant, it is acceptable to use prespray with a higher pH, but provided that a color migration test is performed. An acidic rinse will be suitable for rinsing. (rinsing velour with an alkaline rinse may result in a rough texture after drying). If it is necessary to use stain removers, remember to first perform a color stability test in an inconspicuous place (such materials are particularly susceptible to discoloration). Finally, we thoroughly groom the material with a dry, clean, soft brush in the appropriate direction – a very important step for this material.

Cleaning mattresses can be a challenge even for experienced cleaners. Some cleaners, discouraged by poor results, refuse such jobs entirely. Others don’t focus on stain removal, convinced that stains are impossible to remove and justify cleaning primarily for hygienic purposes. The cause of this difficulty is the characteristic yellow stains on the mattresses that we have to clean. Where do these stains come from? The most common cause of yellow stains on mattresses is sweat and urine. Sweat stains are invisible at first, but over time they turn into yellow marks on the mattress with an unpleasant smell. Sweat consists mainly of water, salts, fats, urea, uric acid, ammonia, lactic acid, carbohydrates and mineral compounds. Adult perspiration is acidic with a pH between 4.5 and 6. Urine also consists mostly of water, but it also contains nitrogenous products of metabolism, such as urea, uric acid, ammonia, mineral salts and bile pigments, which are responsible for the color and smell. How can you distinguish urine stains from sweat stains? Urine stains appear as localized, round spots with distinct edges. Sweat stains, however, are typically diffused over large areas of the mattress. It’s worth noting that urine and sweat stains have very similar compositions.

To remove urine and sweat stains, specialized products are the best choice. The cleaning procedure is as follows. Vacuum the mattress dry, you can use a vibrating attachment for this purpose. Apply a urine stain remover to the affected areas according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Then proceed to rub in the applied product, and here it’s worth using an oscillating brush tool. Mattress cleaning is very specialized work and to achieve satisfactory results, the agitation stage must be performed thoroughly. Then apply enzymatic prespray to the entire surface of the mattress (more generously on stains) and rub again. Allow the chemicals time to work – approximately 10-15 minutes. After this time, all that remains is extraction rinsing. For mattresses, an active oxygen rinse works excellently, it helps lighten the mattress color after cleaning.

If individual stains are still visible on the mattress after rinsing, we can apply solvent-based stain remover to specific areas (sometimes sweat stains contain significant amounts of oils, so a solvent stain remover may be the right choice in such cases). For large stains, first test the stain remover on a small area to verify effectiveness. Remember to perform final extraction rinsing on the treated area. Mattress cleaning is specialized work and unfortunately it is not always possible to achieve satisfactory results. Consider how long it takes for perspiration to create such distinctive yellow stains – months or even years without any cleaning. In such cases, we’re dealing with fiber discoloration rather than removable stains. Sometimes the impossible simply remains impossible. It is particularly important to inform the customer at the outset that cleaning mattresses is primarily of hygienic importance and that we cannot guarantee the removal of all stains.

Carpet and rug cleaning methods can be divided into two basic groups. Deep cleaning (extraction cleaning) and maintenance cleaning (low-moisture cleaning methods). The appropriate cleaning method in a given situation will depend primarily on the requirements imposed by the client, such as quick return to service, the soil level and the type of carpet itself. The ability to select the optimal cleaning method allows us to save time, money and energy.

In our company, we start an order to clean office carpets by preparing a command center. In this sense, the command center is the place where we bring all the equipment, chemicals and accessories—essentially everything we will need. Most often, such a place is the bathroom, due to access to water and a restroom. We spread a protective drop cloth on the floor in the base. When refilling water in extractors or sprayers, it sometimes happens that a little of it spills. The spread cloth then serves two functions. It prevents accidental slipping on the floor and protects the floor from dirt. Then you need to organize your work space. All lighter things that are standing on the carpet must be rearranged. For example, office chairs, trash cans, coat racks, filing cabinets, etc. Typically, we do not move heavy things such as large wardrobes, unless the client wishes otherwise. Desks also remain in place, because office equipment connected to power outlets is on them. Generally, a 50/50 approach works here. That is, we move all the things to one half of the room, wash one side and then switch sides. If there are computers, there are also cables on the floor. We try to hang them higher if possible, so that they do not have direct contact with the floor. We protect the electrical floor outlets from moisture. To do this, we put a piece of absorbent cloth inside. When cleaning rugs on-site, we protect the floor. In such a case, we put a thick plastic sheeting under the rug. After washing, the rugs may have moisture on the underside and this is a risk of damaging the floor if it is hardwood flooring or laminate flooring. Never wash carpet on oil-finished hardwood flooring.

We inspect the area. We do a burn test, paying attention to the dirtiest areas, stains and the construction of the carpet itself. We determine what’s underneath the carpet—the backing type and installation method.

We vacuum the carpet thoroughly. For vacuuming carpets, the only right choice is an upright vacuum cleaner equipped with an electric brush. Dry vacuuming is intended to collect dirt that is not soluble in water, such as sand, hair, etc.

We perform spot stain removal. On office carpets, we most often encounter stains such as chewing gum, coffee, tea and printer toner. Before using any stain remover, first do a color migration test in an inconspicuous place. Gel stain removers are the safest for use on carpets. Because of its consistency, the gel preparation stays within the carpet pile. This is particularly important in the case of carpets with a glued backing. A liquid solvent stain remover can penetrate the carpet backing and dissolve the glue, resulting in a difficult-to-remove stain on the surface.

We apply prespray to small areas, say a few dozen square feet. Otherwise, the applied agent will have time to dry before we move on to the rinsing stage, which of course we cannot allow. In commercial settings, we most often use a 1.5-gallon sprayer. When applying prespray, we are careful not to splash adjacent items. We apply prespray in moderation, more does not necessarily mean better. Wetting the carpet is a risk of separating the layers of the backing and thus dissolving the glue or asphalt backing. For high-traffic areas, we use special presprays, these are highly effective but create significant foam, remember to add a little anti-foaming agent to the extractor’s dirty water tank.

In the scrubbing stage, rotary or oscillating scrubbers are used for carpets and rugs. This stage aims to rub the previously applied prespray into the fibers and distribute it. It is not a complicated process, we simply operate the scrubber on the carpet.

Extraction rinsing is intended to rinse out previously dissolved dirt. To do this, mix the rinsing agent (so-called rinse) according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is best to mix the rinse with water in a bucket and then pour it into the clean water tank of the carpet extractor. The water should be as warm as possible. This guarantees the best results. The extractor may have temperature limitations, pay attention to the maximum temperature recommended by the manufacturer. Extractors equipped with a water heater are a great solution. A rinse agent with an alkaline pH works best for synthetic carpets and rugs. An alkaline rinse has greater cleaning properties and with synthetic office carpets we do not have to worry about maintaining the softness of the material, as is the case with furniture upholstery (however, before using alkaline chemicals, always verify that the carpet contains no natural fibers).

Add a small amount of anti-foaming agent to the extractor’s dirty water tank. We work by making slow passes with the wand over the carpet. In overlapping passes. The wand should maintain contact with the material. Several wet passes followed by dry passes in the same place, then move to the adjacent area. In lightly soiled areas, fewer passes are sufficient, while heavily soiled areas require more passes.

The carpet after extraction washing is damp and will need significant time to dry. It is difficult to say exactly how much time. The drying time depends on many factors. The type of carpet, the initial soil level, the equipment used, the temperature, the level of humidity in the rooms and the accelerated drying or lack thereof are important here. Accelerated drying of the carpet is carried out using special air movers, but this is often not necessary, because modern offices are equipped with air conditioning with a heating and moisture absorption function. Moreover, using air movers for large areas, such as several hundred square meters, is not practical. In such cases, this would require numerous powerful air movers. In our company, office carpets are usually allowed to air dry after washing. If the extraction washing was carried out according to industry standards and using professional equipment, the drying time should not exceed several hours. It is important to inform the customer about the expected drying time before starting work. If the drying time is not acceptable to the customer, we offer alternative cleaning methods with low moisture.

Extraction cleaning is a method of deep cleaning, which allows maximum soil removal from the cleaned surface (cleaning the carpet throughout its full pile depth). But it will not always be possible to carry out extraction cleaning and sometimes there will be no such need. Extraction cleaning is a high-moisture cleaning method. The cleaned surface needs a significant amount of time to dry completely. In most cases this is not a problem, but there are jobs where the client requires minimal drying time. These are often hotels or restaurants for obvious reasons. Secondly, there are jobs where the carpet is not heavily soiled and just needs refreshing. In such a situation, there is no need for deep cleaning (extraction). Therefore, we turn to low moisture cleaning methods, also called maintenance or interim cleaning. Maintenance cleaning, regardless of the method used, only cleans the top portion of the carpet pile. This is not deep cleaning, as in the case of extraction, so these methods are recommended for light to moderate soiling. Low moisture cleaning methods, as the name suggests, have much shorter drying times than extraction cleaning.

Dry compound is also called absorbent compound, dry granule cleaning, or Host cleaning and is one of the first dry cleaning methods. The cleaning procedure for carpets/rugs using dry compounds is very simple. First, as always, we thoroughly vacuum the surface to be cleaned. The best results at this stage will be achieved using an upright vacuum cleaner with an electric brush and afterwards a cylindrical brush machine with cleaning pads may collect surprising amounts of additional dry soil despite the previous vacuuming. Using a cylindrical brush machine on the carpet also provides another advantage—it grooms and lifts the carpet fibers, making it easier to reach deeper layers of the pile. We sprinkle slightly damp dry compounds on the vacuumed carpet in the amount of about one handful per 10 square feet. The granules applied in this way are spread across the surface using a cylindrical brush machine (at this stage we remove the cleaning pads). At this stage, dirt is absorbed by the dry compounds. After drying, vacuum the carpet very thoroughly to collect all dry compound along with absorbed dirt. Here too, a cylindrical brush machine with cleaning pads works best. This method is not recommended for cleaning high-pile carpets. Dry compound cleaning provides minimal results and is increasingly being replaced by more modern technologies. Drying time is about 30 minutes.

This method involves applying encapsulation solution on a previously vacuumed floor covering. We apply the encapsulant in the same way as prespray and then we proceed to agitate it using a rotary scrubber or hand scrubber for small surfaces. Dirt molecules are encapsulated in micro-capsules. After drying, simply vacuum the cleaned surface again, thus collecting dirt encapsulated in crystals. The encapsulation method will work on any type of fiber, there are no contraindications here. Initially, encapsulation could only achieve maintenance-level results. Modern encapsulation products allow excellent results on carpets with significant soiling. Drying time is about 15-30 minutes.

Bonnet cleaning is a process similar to the encapsulation method. The difference is that during the scrubbing stage we replace the cylindrical brush machine with a rotary floor machine equipped with a cotton bonnet or microfiber pad. At this stage, dirt is absorbed into the bonnet pad. This method does not require vacuuming at the end of work, although it is recommended. In our opinion, of all the bonnet cleaning methods, this brings the best results. We would even suggest that in some situations bonnet cleaning can compete with extraction cleaning. The key is using high quality cleaning products and equipment. Drying time is several minutes to 1 hour. Bonnet cleaning can also be performed on upholstery, replacing the rotary machine with a microfiber pad and hand tool (or microfiber mitt).

Shampooing involves applying a special carpet shampoo using a single-disc rotary machine with a soft brush. When drying, dissolved dirt is trapped in shampoo crystals. After complete drying, the carpet should be vacuumed again. With this method, the complete drying time is usually 6-24 hours. This cleaning method is not recommended for cleaning carpets/rugs with high pile.

The dry foam cleaning agent is the same product used for shampooing. The only difference is that it is applied to the carpet with a machine equipped with a foam generator. Surfaces cleaned with the dry foam method usually require a few hours to dry completely. After drying, we vacuum the cleaned surface.

Do you know what brings the greatest satisfaction in this work? Successfully removing difficult stains. And we do not mean pen marks, chewing gum or a relatively fresh stain from food—that’s easy work. We mean difficult stains that seem impossible to remove. Sometimes, while on a job, the customer greets us with: “Don’t worry about this stain—I know it won’t come out. It’s an old stain and several companies have already tried to remove it. I also tried it myself and I think I just made it worse.” Now imagine that you remove this stain 100% and thus gain a loyal customer who will recommend our services. At the same time, you must know that not every stain can always be removed, but let’s discuss that later. Stain removal skills make it very easy to distinguish an amateur from a professional. We cannot approach stain removal based on trial and error without proper training. Ignorance of the basic principles can result in permanent damage to the material. By following the guidelines contained in this chapter, you will be able to remove various stains safely. Stain removal is a multi-stage process and this is what we will start with.

First we have to determine what material we are dealing with. Using inappropriate products for a given material type can cause damage rather than help. For example, with natural fibers, the range of products that can be used is very limited. Wool rug? We ensure that the stain remover we intend to use is safe for natural fibers.

Knowledge about a given stain helps us choose the right stain removal products and removal method. Sometimes it’s simple because you can visually identify the stain. This applies especially to stains like marker traces, nail polish, glue, paint, wax, blood and wine stains, etc. When the stain type is not obvious, we simply ask the customer. Regarding stains, the customer will often know exactly how they were created. Information about the age of the stain will also be useful because we approach fresh blood stains differently than old ones. During the conversation with the client, we also ask whether attempts were made to remove the stain. When we cannot get help from the customer in this area, we must examine the stain closely—look, touch, smell and try to determine its nature. It’s not necessarily about identifying exactly what the stain is, as this can be difficult. We try to determine the characteristics of the stain. For example, it may be obvious that it was something greasy, which is valuable information because then we will use a stain remover designed for oily stains.

Often, customers attempt to remove stains from upholstery or carpet before calling for professional help. Customer creativity in this area is constantly surprising. Customers most commonly use household items like vinegar, baking soda, lemon juice, baking powder, nail polish remover, dish soap or dishwasher tablets. The result? In most cases, the original stain is joined by additional staining. It’s not uncommon for the stain or material damage to become permanent, leaving us with no ability to fix it.

But why does it matter that the client previously treated the stain? The product they used is most likely still there! Example: The customer tried to remove the stain with vinegar. Vinegar has an acidic pH of approximately 2.9. If at this stage we use a stain remover with an alkaline pH, the acidic vinegar will significantly reduce the effectiveness of our stain remover. The principle is that acids neutralize bases and bases neutralize acids, resulting in a neutral pH 7. And this is the perfect starting point for us. We can also test the pH level at the stain location ourselves using litmus papers. On a lightly water-moistened area, we place litmus paper to observe color changes and read the pH level (electronic pH meters are also available). Returning to our case study—we have information from the client that they treated the sofa with vinegar. As you already know, vinegar has an acidic pH and we must neutralize it before proceeding to stain removal. For this purpose, we use alkaline chemistry to neutralize the acid—simply rinse the area with an alkaline rinse.

The stain remover should be safe for the specific material and also selected based on the stain type or soiling. Generally, selecting the proper stain remover should not be a problem even for beginners. Simply research the professional products available in the market. Visit a distributor’s website and read about which stain removers are for what purpose and material type, whether they are water-based or solvent-based, their pH levels, etc. This gives us knowledge about available products and enables us to select them like an artist choosing colors on a palette.

The manufacturer can guarantee that the stain remover is safe for a given type of fiber, but we still do a color bleeding test. If something goes wrong and the material discolors or bleeds, we will be responsible, not the product manufacturer. In the least visible place we apply a small amount of stain remover. After a while, we press a white microfiber towel on the area and wait a few seconds. Then we check if the material discolored or if color transferred to the microfiber. If so, we should not use this stain remover in this situation.

Before using the stain remover, we remove excess material if present. We mean fresh liquid stains—situations where something has spilled. In this case, absorb the maximum amount of liquid with a towel, cloth or paper towels. We press the towel at the stain location, gently blotting. Blotting involves gently pressing absorbent material onto the stained area using up-and-down movements. We do not rub or scrub because this will drive the stain deeper into the material. It is important that the towel or whatever we use is white. Colored materials can dye the fabric. We rarely use this method for fresh stains because by the time we arrive on-site, the liquid will have long since been absorbed. But if a customer calls for advice, we know what to recommend. We also emphasize that they should do nothing more with the stain and not apply anything else, as this could make the stain permanent. We schedule service as soon as possible—time works against us with stains. The older the stain, the harder it will be to remove. For solid stains like chewing gum, wax, or glue, we try to scrape away excess material with a blunt knife or other appropriate tool. We do this carefully to avoid damaging the material fibers.

Finally, we apply the stain remover to the stain and this can be done several ways, depending on the stain size and surface type. Stain removers often come in large bottles, so it’s worth transferring them to smaller bottles. This reduces what we carry to customer sites and makes application more convenient. In most cases, we first apply the stain remover to microfiber and blot the stain. We do not apply too much stain remover at once. We blot the stain with white microfiber or cotton swabs. The white color of the microfiber, as we have already mentioned, prevents dyeing the material and provides another advantage. When blotting the stain with white microfiber, we can clearly see if color transfers from the stain to the cloth. If so, this is very good—it means we have chosen the correct stain remover and should continue. We add more stain remover and gently blot until we achieve results.

However, if the microfiber shows no stain transfer when blotting, it means we need to change to a different stain remover. For extensive stains, we work from the outer edges toward the center. Otherwise, we will enlarge the stained area. When a stain remover proves ineffective, we rinse the stained area with clean water before using the next product. We approach stain removal patiently, without rushing, remembering that not every stain can always be removed. These are universal stain removal principles used by professionals worldwide. By following them, we achieve excellent results. Let’s now discuss specific stain types. We analyze each stain by breaking it down into basic components and select stain removers accordingly.

Generally, stains can be divided into two groups—water-based and oil-based. Stain removers can also be divided into two groups—water-based and solvent-based. Solvent-based stain removers will not remove water-based stains, and water-based stain removers will not remove oily stains. So for water-based stains, we use water-based products, and for oily stains we use solvent-based stain removers. Water-based stains include beverages, coffee, tea, wine, milk, blood, urine, and water-based inks. Oil-based stains include all types of paints, varnishes, inks, tar, grease, glue, oil, and food sauces. Sometimes there are stains containing both water-based and oil-based substances. To completely remove such stains, we use a solvent-based stain remover first, and if the stain remains visible, we use a water-based product. This order is intentional. When in doubt, we begin with solvent-based products. If we started with water-based products and the stain didn’t come out, the solvent-based stain remover would have difficulty working on the wet stain.

Quite often we receive jobs where, in addition to standard cleaning, we must eliminate unpleasant odors. Most commonly, these are odors from urine, vomit, mustiness, and cigarette smoke. Removing unpleasant odors is called deodorization. The fundamental issue in deodorization is removing the source of the odor. Without thoroughly removing the source of the odor, we will only temporarily solve the problem. You must be aware that in most cases, the odor will penetrate not only the surface upholstery material, but also the padding material. Special products are designed for neutralizing odors. All types of fragrance products are ineffective because instead of removing the odor, they only mask it. In many situations, removing unpleasant odors should be combined with disinfection.

Initially, you should ask the client to indicate the area on the surface where the urine odor problem occurs. We apply the odor neutralization product not to the entire sofa or carpet, but only to the areas where the odor source is located. Therefore, this is valuable information for us. Special flashlights that generate a strong UV light beam are also helpful for identifying urine. Mineral salts contained in urine begin to glow yellow-green. Another gadget useful for finding places where “the cat urinated” is a moisture meter. We place the meter in various locations on the sofa, and when we encounter urine, the meter will start beeping. There are many excellent products on the market designed for neutralizing urine odor, and each has its supporters. An example is Kill Odor Plus by ChemSpec.

Before use, remember to always read the application instructions for the given product. Some products will be ready to use, others will require dilution, etc. It happens that in extreme cases, you have to return for a touch-up because the odor was still detectable, but you cannot assume from the start that it’s the fault of the chemistry used. Sometimes furniture or carpets are so heavily saturated with urine that no chemistry will help anymore. There’s also the matter of proper product application. We apply the product to a previously vacuumed surface. For product application, we use a hand sprayer or spray bottle. We spray the material abundantly, allow the product to penetrate into the foam, then gently work it into the material with a brush. Now comes a very important stage: time. For the deodorization product to have a chance to fulfill its purpose, we must leave it in the material for an extended period. The longer, the better. Ideally until it dries completely, but for obvious reasons, we don’t have that much time. In practice, we wait about 15-30 minutes after applying the product, then proceed to extraction cleaning. We thoroughly extract the given section, firmly pressing the wand against the material. We use a standard wand with external spray that will ensure the best penetration of the material and parts of the foam. Only now can we proceed to clean the entire sofa, following the standard process: prespray, agitation, and extraction cleaning. If the urine odor problem was noticeably significant, to ensure its removal, we can do two additional things. We can use a solution of urine odor removal product with water and inject it deep into the upholstery in several places using a syringe, and spray it with a sprayer where the odor problem occurred. That’s everything—we leave it to dry.

We apply Enz All by ChemSpec enzymatic prespray abundantly to the soiled upholstery section (or carpet/rug). When preparing the prespray solution, remember to follow the water temperature recommended by the manufacturer. We work it in with a brush, allow the prespray to penetrate deeper, and wait several minutes, but don’t let the product dry completely. We extract with an acid rinse plus odor removal product. In this case, we can apply the prespray immediately to the entire surface of the item being cleaned, only paying attention to apply a larger amount of prespray where the vomit odor occurs and extract longer in that area. Finally, it’s worth doing a local spray with a solution of odor removal product and water.

If the cigarette odor is not very intense, standard cleaning with the addition of ChemSpec Kill Odor Plus to the rinse + final spray with the addition of the same product (or Odour Pro by Prochem) is sufficient to eliminate it. We recall a job when a client called asking for help. This client had hired an upholsterer to reupholster her favorite sofa with expensive fabric. The upholsterer did flawless work, but cigarette smoke was detectable from the sofa, which the client could not tolerate. In that case, standard cleaning + Kill Odor Plus was sufficient. But for example, there was also a job where our task was to eliminate cigarette odor left by tenants. There, the problem was much more serious, and standard cleaning proved ineffective. Furniture or carpets that have been in a cigarette smoke environment for a long time will be thoroughly saturated with this odor, and it won’t be easy to eliminate this odor unless we use a specialized product for this purpose. I’m referring to a product called ChemSpec Air Neutraliser Citrus. This product has multiple applications, but for our needs, it’s sufficient to add it to alkaline rinse in a ratio of 2.7 fl oz per 2.6 gallons of water and thoroughly extract the material. This product will also be effective for neutralizing fire smoke odor. Caution: it is irritating to the respiratory system; use only in well-ventilated areas.

A good example from this category might be the odor of sour milk. This is a frequent case among clients with small children. Spilled milk soaks deep into the material and begins to spoil. It emits an unpleasant, rancid odor that becomes increasingly intense over time. The same applies to many other food or organic products. Regardless of the cause and process that occurred (souring, rotting, fermentation, decomposition), the procedure will be the same. We locate the area where the unpleasant odor problem appeared and apply enzymatic prespray (standard solution according to manufacturer recommendations). You can just as well apply the prespray immediately to the entire surface (Remember that most enzymatic prespray products are alkaline, and applying alkaline products especially to natural fiber materials carries the risk of damage. In such cases, use a prespray dedicated to natural fibers such as Prochem Fine Fabric Prespray B107). Next, we follow the standard agitation stage, wait a few minutes, and then proceed to extraction cleaning. For this purpose, prepare an acid rinse working solution + Kill Odor Plus. To ensure the odor is removed, it’s worth doing a final spray with Kill Odor Plus. We distribute this product over the entire surface of the cleaned upholstery or carpet and leave it to dry. In extremely difficult cases, the same Kill Odor Plus solution can be injected into the material using a syringe with a needle. We leave it to dry.

The methods described above are highly effective, but in the context of removing unpleasant odors, sometimes cleaning + deodorization alone may prove insufficient. In such situations, only ozone treatment remains, and there may be cases where even ozone treatment won’t help. Then, unfortunately, the item is only suitable for disposal. But fortunately, these are very rare cases.

Hydrophobic protection is a process that involves applying a special protectant in a specific manner to properly prepared material. After drying, the protectant creates an invisible hydrophobic coating on the material. Liquids spilled on properly protected material will not soak in but will bead up and remain on the surface. The hydrophobic coating actually repels dirt and stains. The protection process is not complicated, but you must follow several important rules.

Protection is applied at the very end; first, of course, we must clean the given furniture or carpet/rug. We clean in the standard way and according to what the situation requires, but before protection, the material should have a neutral pH. The protectant will adhere best in a neutral or even slightly acidic environment. So if we used an alkaline prespray and extracted with an alkaline rinse, the material will have an alkaline pH and the protectant will not adhere properly. However, if we used an alkaline prespray for cleaning but extracted with an acid rinse, the material will have a neutral pH level, which is what it should be. When preparing an acid solution for extraction before protection, it’s worth slightly increasing the dosage. So if we normally dose All Fiber Rinse B109 by Prochem at a ratio of 1.3 fl oz per 1 gallon of water, before protection we can increase the amount of product to, for example, 2 fl oz per 1 gallon of water. The pH level on the material can be checked using litmus paper strips. Place a single litmus paper strip on the damp material for a few seconds. The strip will change color after a short time depending on the pH it contacted. Compare the color from the strip with the included color palette. Each different color or shade represents a different pH level. If we find that the material has a neutral pH (7), we can proceed to apply the protectant. If the pH is higher, spray the material with an acid rinse solution at a ratio of 13-26 fl oz per a gallon of water. However, in most cases this will not be necessary.

Now let’s move to the stage of applying the protectant. After cleaning, the upholstery will be damp, so it’s important when choosing a protectant to pay attention to whether the given protectant can be applied to still-damp surfaces. There are protectants that can be applied to both dry and damp surfaces, and those that should only be applied to dry surfaces. Protectants can be divided into two more groups: solvent-based products that are ready to use, and water-based products that require prior dilution. The protectant is best applied using a paint sprayer, as this way we can apply it smoothly and evenly over the entire surface. We apply the protectant as a mist from a distance of approximately 8-10 inches. Protectant is not applied like prespray. We protect by applying the product as a mist, with calm movements, from one side to the other. Finally, you can distribute the protectant with a soft, clean, and dry brush, but do this very gently so as not to remove the protectant. We must remember to inform the client that the protected surface cannot be touched for a minimum of 24 hours, and if possible, 48 hours. The protectant needs approximately this much time to cure on the material. Exactly how long depends on which protectant is used, but the type of material also matters. The degree of moisture in the material is not an indicator here. The fact that the sofa will be completely dry after a few hours does not mean that the protectant has had time to cure, and using the item too early will result in the protectant being worn off by clothing.

Thanks For Reading! Now you know why you should choose ShinyandSpotless for your carpet cleaning team in Central Florida.